Balenciaga Names British Jamaican Martine Rose As Its First Female Creative Director After 109 Years

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Martine Rose is a critically acclaimed British fashion designer known for redefining contemporary menswear. Born in South London to a Jamaican father and a British mother, her upbringing heavily integrated subcultural movements, music, and community values. After graduating from Middlesex University in 2002, she established her namesake label in London in 2007.

Rose built a dedicated, cult-like following by merging elements of football culture, reggae, and northern soul into high-end streetwear. Rather than hosting traditional high-fashion runway shows, Rose gained fame for staging community-centered runway presentations in unconventional spaces—including a neighborhood cul-de-sac, a primary school, and a shuttered London sauna.

The Product: The Martine Rose Design Aesthetic and DNA

Balenciaga towel skirt. Photograph: Balenciaga

The Martine Rose brand is famous for breaking traditional menswear constraints by playing with proportion, silhouette, and everyday nostalgia. Key products and viral design milestones that defined her rise include:

  • The Nike Shox Collaboration: Rose subverted the classic athletic shoe by transforming the Nike Shox into a avant-garde heeled mule.
  • Revisited Sportswear: She popularized oversized, reworked football jerseys and ultra-baggy denim as high-fashion staples.
  • Celebrity Custom Work: Her label earned cross-industry backing from cultural icons like Rihanna, Drake, and Justin Bieber. Notably, rapper Kendrick Lamar wore a custom Martine Rose varsity jacket during his celebrated 2025 Super Bowl half-time show performance.

The Thing: A Historic Appointment at Balenciaga

On November 6, 2026, parent company Kering announced that Martine Rose will officially step into the role of creative director at Balenciaga. She succeeds Pierpaolo Piccioli, who departed the label after an 18-month tenure. Rose will assume oversight of both the menswear and womenswear portfolios.

Martine Rose autumn-winter 2026 men’s collection.Photograph: Pascal Gambarte/Martine Rose

The move is historic. In Balenciaga’s 109-year existence, Rose is the first woman to hold the top creative office. Furthermore, she is only the second Black woman ever appointed to pilot a major heritage European luxury house, following Grace Wales Bonner’s history-making placement at Hermès in 2025.

This appointment represents a homecoming of sorts. Rose previously served as a menswear consultant for Balenciaga between 2015 and 2018 under former creative director Demna, where she was highly instrumental in crafting the brand’s iconic oversized, “Dad shoe” visual aesthetic. Kering CEO Luca de Meo noted that Rose’s appointment is a strategic pillar aimed at keeping Balenciaga at the forefront of culture, innovation, and generational trends amidst a broader corporate restructuring of the luxury group.

Martine Rose autumn/winter 2026 collection. Photograph: Pascal Gambarte/Martine Rose

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Martine Rose the first female creative director of Balenciaga?
Yes. Her appointment marks the first time in the luxury brand’s 109-year history that a woman has been chosen to lead the fashion house.

Who did Martine Rose replace at Balenciaga?
She succeeds Pierpaolo Piccioli, whose exit from the luxury brand was publicly confirmed just one day prior to her appointment.

Has Martine Rose worked with Balenciaga before?
Yes. Rose previously consulted for Balenciaga’s menswear department for three years under the leadership of Demna, where she helped establish the brand’s signature oversized proportions.

What will happen to Martine Rose’s independent namesake fashion brand?
While Rose takes on both menswear and womenswear lines at Balenciaga, her independent London label faces its own path. E-commerce firm Level Group currently holds a majority stake in her namesake company, which has navigated financial hurdles due to Brexit and has not staged a live independent show since June 2025.

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